On the Viking Trail

Last night, when we got up at 3AM to visit the facilities, Linda got her first view of the Northern Lights - something that's been on her list of things to see for quite some time. It wasn't a terribly spectacular display of the Aurora, but still nice to get a view of them. Wednesday morning was another nice summer day, with a bit of cloud building. We got underway about 1015, and stopped on our northbound drive at several scenic lookouts. We drove through the town of Rocky Harbour, and stopped for fresh-baked bread at a local bakery, and filled up the gas tank, before continuing a few kilometres to the Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. Here we took a short walk to the beach, and were impressed by the Tuckamore trees along the way. Tuckamores are really just thick, stunted, fir balsam or spruce trees which grow in one direction. Because of the strong, salt-spray-covered winds the trees cannot grow tall, and instead stay low and bushy, and grow together in tangled masses. The windward side tends to die off, and the leeward side grows out, giving it a one-sided nature.




Linda pointing to a Tuckamore







Even though I'm very poor at geology, I was still impressed by the nature of the rocks along the shoreline, as well. Shale fragments were sticking out of the rocks, having been frozen and broken off. And mantle rock/lava rock was evident in many places as well. Of course, we also visited the Lighthouse here, and its Parks Canada presentation on the area. We then continued North, stopping occasionally for the views. The Arches Provincial Park area was interesting, with the eroded rock formations - but almost as interesting were the dead trees surrounding the area, due to the harsh weather.



The Arches




Weather-worn Trees:














By 1500 it was time to find a place to camp, so we pulled in to Port au Choix, where we'd heard there was a reasonable campsite. It may be reasonable, but it was also kind of barren and windswept, and we didn't feel like our tent would remain pegged to the rock if a wind were to come up (it was already about 20 knots). So we turned back south a few kilometres to a small campground at Hawke's Bay, beside the Torrent River. This was a very uncrowded spot, with a bit of tree protection, and we settled in. Following dinner, we took a hike along a boardwalk/nature trail which runs three kilometres along the river, and eventually leads to a fishladder beside a chute. All along the river were fly fishermen trying their luck (still haven't seen any being caught), and signs of moose (tracks and scat).





3 Km Boardwalk Nature Trail












The trail ends up at a gravel road, which we followed back to the highway and then the campsite, so I feel I've earned my Quidi Vidi beer for this evening.




"Borrowing" Wi-Fi"




Thursday morning we decided to start the day by viewing what we'd missed the previous day. So first on the agenda was a tour of the Fish Ladder and Salmon Interpretive Centre (Atlantic Salmon, of course). They have a very good presentation, including a view of the fish as they proceed upstream through the falls bypass (fish ladder).




These salmon are heading upstream






Then on to Port aux Choix, which we had decided wouldn't be good for camping. But they do have a National Historic Site presenting the finds of very early aboriginal peoples from this area, and includes Canada's best collection of articles relating to their settlements here. The film and artifacts presentation was interesting, but we were a bit disappointed in the archaeological presentations (just couple of posters to tell us that this was the site of the digs), rather than what we'd expected. So we continued northbound, stopping at Flowers Cove to view Thrombolites - very rare "living rocks", or fossil-like rock formations.















Thrombolites - I'm not geologic enough to explain, so here's the sign....good luck reading it!
(btw Dave & Patsy - they're very rare, and Australia only other place they're found)

As we continued northbound, all along the roadway were piles of cut wood which had obviously been carried roadside on sleds (still there) towed by snowmobiles for hauling by road in the summer. Also garden plots alongside the road, as many of the people don't have the land for a garden, and so claim a small plot alongside the highway, fence it off, and grow their veggies. We finally arrived at our campsite 7 Km. from St. Anthony, and set up for the night. We took a short visit to the town, and viewed a large Iceberg drifting by in the distance. We inquired about a "Viking Feast", which was to be put on in the evening, but the $45.00 per person price wouldn't match our budget. Instead, we went back to the campground and made up some Hamburger Helper and salad for the evening. Tomorrow we can check out the Vikings! (They settled here in 1000 AD, and from the present temperature, I'd guess they left to go back to Greenland, where it's warmer!)