Cannongate
There was also a very large heavy-lift crane ship in the harbour, which I found interesting. We then continued to Cape Spear, the point of land most easterly in all of North America. A sign pointing to London at 3200 Km., and Vancouver at 5700, made clear the size of our country....although this drive is also emphasizing the vastness of this land. From here, facing East, the entire population of North America is behind me! Of course, we also can't go any further East, so from here, we will be Westbound again, heading for home (but not quite halfway time or distance-wise yet.....that will happen early next week). Apparently it is the "thing to do" to get here at dawn, to greet the new day from this spot. I was just as happy to greet 11 AM - somebody has to do it! We toured the original lighthouse, built in 1856, and hiked around the Cape. Then it was off to the North (and a bit West) to view Signal Hill, a high point of land overlooking St. John's Harbour and her approaches.
Entrance to St Johns Hbr from Signal Hill
The Interpretive/Visitor's Centre has a very good display and film, and with the loan of a driver's license or credit card, they provide a GPS Unit to carry along and provide a guided tour of the trails, views, and fortifications. We took advantage of this tool, and enjoyed a hike around and up onto the hill, with some spectacular views. We watched a handsome schooner sail into the harbour and drop her sails inside. We learned a bit later that she was the "Bowdoin", a traditional schooner belonging to the Maine School of Navigation, who was visiting in aid of this year's celebration of Captain Bob Bartlett, who took Admiral Peary to the Arctic in his quest for the North Pole.
A Play in the Street
By late afternoon, it was time to find a home for the night, so we drove into town, and set up camp in a large park/campground in the middle of town, Pippi Park. Not only was it close to the sights of the city, it was reasonably quiet, had amenities (showers, wifi, etc) and met our budget. We deliberately blew the daily budget, however, when we drove back into town to check out the famous Water Street/George Street areas, which have a bit of nightlife. We found a nice little pub and ordered local beer and cod for dinner (and some mussels, which were on special). That killed our daily limit by over $10.00, so from there we walked around the area and chatted with locals on the street (Very pleasant and friendly people). On the waterfront, we happened across a theater group's play, in the street, and in front of the schooner "Bowdoin", relating the story of Captain Bartlett. We were also able to view, closeup, the schooner - and chatted with one of her crew for a bit. The ship has completed 27 trips to Greenland and the Canadian Arctic since 1921, and continues to do so with a complement of students and scientists onboard. Although 88 feet in length, she was docked between the Coast Guard Ship Sir Wilfred Laurier, and a huge Oceanographic Platform ship, and appeared quite small in comparison.
Schooner "Bowdoin" with CCGS Sir Wilfred Laurier
By 2200 we were back to our campsite, and ready for another day of exploration......Westbound from here on.
Friday morning was another fine warm day, and we got off to a late start, and a lazy breakfast (pancakes, bacon, coffee). I tried to upload the above Blog but the wifi informed me it was already at capacity....so I guess the next installment will have to wait and get a bit longer. We finally left the campsite about 1100, and stopped in at a Sobey's Supermarket to stock up for the next few miles. Then it was West and North, along the Conception Bay shoreline, viewing a melange of urban and rural countryside. We stopped at the village of Brigus, which has maintained a sense of the past in maintaining the look and feel of an older fishing village.
Brigus town
Linda walking the streets of Brigus
Coincidentally, it is also the home port of aforementioned Captain Bartlett, with a historic site dedicated to him and his story. We visited the old homestead, and quite enjoyed the details of his many Arctic voyages and explorations, as well as a look into the life of 19th and early 20th century Newfoundland. The town also has a very nice little cafe on Water Street (a common name in the towns and villages here), which we tested and found some excellent cod chowder (Albert, my brother-in-law, would approve of this chowder, and he's an expert on the subject) with blueberry crisp - so much for another day's budget. We hiked around town, and by 1500 it was time to push on. We continued following the shoreline around, and then crossed the peninsula to the next big bay, Trinity Bay, arriving at beautiful downtown Dildo (before you ask, I'm not sure how the town got it's name, and the brochures aren't specific). It was then a scenic, winding shoreline drive around the south part of the bay, and then northward again, past towns with names like Old Shop and Long Cove, ending up at Chance Cove, with a campground with large wooded camping sites. The clouds had thickened during the afternoon, with light rainshowers, and more showers forecast for overnight. So we picked a spot with a bit of arboreal cover to help our tarpaulin and tent. As we were setting up the tent, a large fox sauntered out of the bush a few yards away from us. He didn't leave until I grabbed my camera to take his photo - missed another one! We had a light dinner, being still full from the chowder at lunchtime. A short walk along the cliffs overlooking the sea, and onto the beach, ended our day. No whales could be found, and no more foxes walked out of the woods to greet us, so we read for awhile, and had another early night.
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