The rain continued throughout the night, and by 0600 the following morning, the near-gale force winds had subsided and we were looking out at moderate rain and fog. We were underway by 0630, making use of our radar and chart plotter to motor-sail out of Tongass Narrows and say goodbye to Ketchikan. Several hours later, the fog had lifted, and the wind picked up , as we crossed into Clarence Strait. By 1100 we were broad reaching with 15 to 20 knots of wind astern of us, and having a great sail. A pod of orcas passed us by....strangely, the first orcas we'd seen so far on the trip.
An Orca greeting us in Clarence Strait
There was a bit of a swell running cross-wise to the waves, so the motion was a bit lively - Kelcy took some gravol for a queasy stomach, and promptly fell asleep for the rest of the trip. By 1300, we'd tied up to the state dock in Meyer's Chuck, a very small inlet with about 20 homes, a post office, a dock, and a craft shop. We'd been in only a short time when 3 large power boats arrived, and filled the rest of the dock space - lucky for us we'd left (and arrived) early enough to get a spot! Several more boats tried entering, so we called a sailboat newly arrived, and offered to have them raft onto us, which they did. "Irish Dreamer" is a 45 foot Unison, from Poulsbo Washington, and the 2 couples onboard were grateful to have a tie-up spot. Shane and I hiked a trail through the village, visiting the craft shop and ending up on a beach overlooking Clarence Strait. We got back to the boat at 1630 to find Kelcy up and only a bit groggy from the anti-nausea drugs. Dinner of chicken quesadillas, and we decided to swap positions with " Irish Dreamer" tied alongside us, as we'd be leaving early in the morning, and they were planning on staying. So we swapped over, with us on the outside, and then came aboard the boat for some wine and a visit. By 2300 we were calling it a night, and hit our berths.
On Thursday (24th), we departed at 0630, motorsailing out of Clarence Strait and northeasbound into Ernest Strait. There wasn't much wind, and seas were smooth, although the weather was misty with a few rainshowers. By the time we pulled into Anan Bay, at the east end of Ernest Strait, the rain had disappeared, and the weather was a bit warmer. We tied to a Forest Services float (normally not allowed, but the area is still not officially open for summer so we were allowed a short stop). Tied to the other side of the float was "Star of the Winds", a boat from our sailing club in Comox! We dinghied ashore, and followed a boardwalk leading to a blind built specifically to watch bears, which congregate here to catch the salmon which will soon be running up the river. Along the trail we ran into Rick, the owner of "Star of the Winds", so we agreed we'd meet together after our bear-watching, and sail to Berg Bay, about 10 miles further north. We then continued along the trail, and as we rounded a corner to approach the blind, a bear walked out on the trail immediately in front of us. He just looked at us, and ambled off, while we took some pictures and ambled into the bear blind. Another bear walked by us, when we realized we hadn't closed the gate to the blind....but the bear didn't care, and just kept going. We managed to view several bears, and then departed back to the boat for the rest of our day's sail.
Black Bear at Anan
By 1730 we were tied up to another Forest Services Float, this time in Berg Bay, with Rick's boat alongside the opposite part of the float. The weather had turned quite cool and wet again, so we fired up the heater for a bit, while we prepared our dinner (a nice curried chicken prepared by Shane). A visit with Rick, and it was time for bed.
For a third day in a row, we set off at 0630 again, this time to make slack water in Eastern Passage and the Narrows just before that. Again, we were in reduced visibility in rain and fog, using the radar and chart plotter to navigate. Again, as the morning progressed, the weather improved. By 1030 we were rounding Wrangell Island, and approaching the town of the same name...Wrangell. We got tied to the dock by late morning, giving us a bit of time to check in with the harbormaster and customs (Canadians now have to report in to customs at each port), and then head out on the town. Shane and Kelcy headed for the golf course - the only one in Southeast Alaska, while I shopped for some boat hardware and groceries, and then walked about town sightseeing. I visited a local beach with Petroglyphs (stone etchings by long-forgotten natives), and was greeted there by a very friendly black labrador who insisted I throw a stick for him.
Petroglyphs
My friend, the lab.
I complied about a hundred times before tiring out and returning to the boat. Rick and I telephoned our club for their TGIF beer call, and to wish our friend Wendy a happy birthday. Shane and Kelcy returned from the golfing, Shane having scored an eagle on a par-four hole.
Kelcy and Shane, enjoying the golf course in Wrangell.
We enjoyed a bbq'd steak dinner, before settling down for a bit of internet updating, and a movie, before retiring for the night.
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